Meet the man behind Verdevios' new sparkling wine
"For us, it's part of who we are"
Behind Verdevios' new sparkling wine lie three years of work, five generations of family history, and a winemaker who refuses to make wine to suit the market's taste.
Backstory: Poggio Ridente
Founded: 1899
Run by: Matteo Poggio and his family
Vineyards: 12 hectares
Elevation: 420–450 metres above sea level
Soil type: Mineral-rich marly soil with limestone
Annual production: Approx. 40,000 bottles
Harvest: September
Sparkling wine: Approximately 3 years of production time
Method: Traditional bottle fermentation (the same method used for Champagne, but with local grapes)
Main grapes: Barbera, Nebbiolo and Nizza (Barbera d'Asti Nizza DOCG)
About our wines:
Barbera d'Asti: Made in 6 months. Easiest to drink, works with any meal
Nizza: Produced over two years. Deep and00 complex. Can only be made from certain grapes in special areas
Spumante: Made in 3 years by the Poggio family. Complex, delicious, pairs very well with salami and cheese
– "People just see a bottle on the shop shelf. For us, it's part of who we are."
These are the words of Matteo Poggio, the man behind our newest product: Vino Spumante, an organic wine grown the same way as Champagne, but with local grapes. Matteo has more than 30 years of experience, and wine has been part of his life since he could walk — through his father and grandfather, who were also winemakers. His farm, Poggio, has been in the family since 1899, and he has combined five years of university study with extensive experience in America, Europe and Piedmont.
– "I started because I wanted to create something different, and the Barbera grape has the characteristics to do that. People don't understand how much passion and hard work goes into a bottle of wine. The industry turns the bottle into just a number on a shelf, but for us, it's part of who we are," says Poggio.
A weighty family legacy
Thirteen years ago, Poggio decided to take over the family farm, Poggio Ridente, in Nizza. The farm was bought by his great-great-grandfather in 1899, and that year holds special meaning for him.
– "It's a huge driving force. Developing the family business and the family farm gives you a sense of pride. My children will get to choose for themselves, but I hope they'll continue the legacy."
Because it is precisely that legacy that matters most to Matteo. From a young age, he worked his way up alongside his grandfather and father among Piedmont's vines on the beautiful farm, 450 metres above sea level. Despite gaining solid experience early on, he felt a pull to do things his own way — which opened the door to university.
– "So I studied winemaking for five years. That lets me combine experience and theory in a way many winemakers don't. The experience from university, from my father, from the US and from Europe gives me the chance to work more methodically than many other winemakers."
A clear philosophy
When he took over the family farm 13 years ago, he changed a great deal while still holding on to family tradition.
– "I changed a lot about the marketing — the website, the logo, and the decision to create a sparkling wine were all new moves on my part."
He could have worked safely and comfortably at the local wine factory, but the calling to create something of his own outweighed the risk. Long experience at several major wine producers has shaped a clear philosophy about his craft.
– "Income varies a lot with the season. But I've worked at several wine factories where they make wine for the market and sweeten it to make it easier to sell. We want to make real wine — quality over quantity. The wine should express the soil and the place it comes from, not market trends," he says firmly.
A long road ahead
The road to making this kind of wine isn't easy. The process, much like Norway at the World Cup, involves a long wait — but one that's worth it. Fortunately, we don't have to wait quite as long for this experience.
The process begins with carefully selected Barbera grapes. After the first fermentation, the wine is aged in barrels for up to eight months before being bottled. There, a new fermentation begins, creating the natural bubbles. Only after about three years is the bottle ready.
"It's important to choose vineyards and Barbera grapes with the right characteristics. The farm needs to be at altitude and get the right amount of sun. The Verdevios grape has the right conditions, since it sits 420 metres above sea level."
The demanding process yields the following result:
– "A full-bodied yet complex sparkling wine, with a balanced texture that's still elegant and delicious. It works very well as an aperitif and with food — cheese and salami, for example."
More than bubbles an wine
For Poggio, it has always been tied to Nizza. It isn't just about craftsmanship and bubbles — it's about community and connection to home.
– "You don't need wine to live, but people are made to live together. Wine can bring joy, and one of the things I'm most proud of is the work my neighbours do, which makes Nizza look so beautiful. For us, a bottle isn't just wine. It's the story of our family."
The production process
The grapes are carefully selected
First fermentation takes place in steel tanks
The wine is then aged in old barrels to develop complexity
After 6-8 months, its is bottled
Sugar and yeast are added
A new, natural fermentation creates the bubbles
This takes about one month
The bottles then rest for around two years
The method is the same one used in champagne
The difference is that local grapes are used instead of french ones
Wine should be authentic — it isn't as essential as water, but it brings the local community together. Without the work of my neighbours and all the farms around us, Piedmont and Nizza would never look as beautiful as they do today.
